is when art and
moral persuasion, installation and shop display are intertwined…
“Every time we take
out the trash, go to the toilet, sweep/vacuum/mop the floor, we participate in
the Sisyphean drama of modern hygiene and waste management: to purge out of
plain view any unsightly reminder of our excesses and inevitable degradation.
Nadim Addas has decided to request all construction waste and litter be
produced during the installation period be retained and exhibited in a grid of
fifty-six custom made clear plastic boxes. The function of these plastic boxes
mimics the kinds of household containers used to store away the clutter of
daily life; while the exterior typology mimics the Man Cheong Street housing
complex in Kowloon, one of the classic examples of hyper-dense housing
developments…”
excerpt from artist's statement
A work from group
exhibition in ‘Unseen Existence: Dialogues with the Environment in Contemporary
Art’
Hong Kong Arts Centre, 12 Dec, 2014 – 15 Jan, 2015
“If
there is a high, hard wall and an egg that breaks against it, no matter how
right the wall and how wrong the egg, I will stand on the side of the egg.”
Haruki Murakami when
accepting Jerusalem Prize in speech “Of Walls and Eggs”, 2009.
To protect the minority must first safeguard its
right to speak out. When the wall is an atrocious force upon all humans, we
must take side and proclaim:
The east coast of Taiwan, preserved with plenty of arable farmlands, is a major food basket for the population. The rice
fields produce the best quality grains that impress the choosiest connoisseurs. Due to the continuous barrier of steep mountains dividing the
island, the counties along the east rely on agriculture and tourism to sustain
their economy. For urban dwellers who want to make a quick exit to the countryside, this stretch of land is their favorite
back garden to spend the weekend.
Without public transport, Haulien is accessible on
foot or by bicycle for most visitors. Nanbin Seashore Park is about one km from
the city centre, which faces the Pacific Ocean and links up with other scenic
spots. 在沒有公共交通配套下，花蓮的旅遊大多以步行或騎單車為主。「南濱公園」距市中心約一公里，行人步道面對太平洋與其他景點相連。
Strolling in night market is a pastime en masse after hiding away from
the sun in the day. Far at the distance lies a formidable chain of mountains,
the highest of which is Mount Qilai at 3607m.
Under a light breeze, love is the reason for being
along
the coast in this quiet town. 在這恬靜小城，此刻微風騷動，愛是存在的唯一意義。
My wife and I had a soft spot for “A Zhi
Bao” due to its earthy cuisine and décor. Contradictory to my professional
instinct to stay clear of building hazards – tremendous fire risk from the untreated
timber structure, we went there twice for dinner. "阿之寳"的樸實菜肴及裝飾，是太太與我的心頭好。裡面未經防火處理的木構造雖然有違自己的專業直覺反應，我們還是造訪了兩次。
Proliferated in many
cities as urban regeneration projects, the Cultural Industries Park has been salvaged
from an old distillery plant recently. Handicraft shops and eateries fill up
most
of the premises. 「花蓮文創園區」一如眾多雨後春筍的城市活化項目，從廢棄的酒廠更生過來。大部份的原有廠房已由手工藝及食店替代。
Situated atop a hill on the eastern outskirts, Pine
Garden has a commanding view of the city and the ocean. An exhibition of
poetries and lyrics was on display but visitors seemed to prefer
Behind the garden and built by the Japanese against
the Allied Forces lies a WWII air raid shelter. It was preserved and intently decorated for visitors. 在園後有一所二次大戰由日本建造，抵禦盟軍的防空洞。保存得值以外，它還刻意裝飾給遊人參觀。
With a clothed model of a Japanese soldier holding
a V sign and photographs of wine taking before the kamikaze attacks, it was baffling to fathom on the mentality behind
this set-up.
After Typhoon Matmo hit the island and caused heavy
disruptions to school and business activities in July, Taroko Gorge was closed
for all visitors including us. It is a known fact that eroded stones fall off
from high points and result in injuries.
The breath-taking
mountain drive along Suhua Highway is an alternative to Highway One in
California, US. One can hire a taxi for a half-day excursion there; or as we
did, kept a look-out between the tunnels in the train along the coast.
The statue of Sun Yat-sen, the founding father of the
new China per se, at Zhongshan Park might need some dusting and weed-picking. The
bronze work is lucky to survive as the one in Tainan had been pulled down in
February amid political bickering. 市內「中山公園」裡的孫中山像，雜草及泥濘確實需要處理一番。但考慮到台南的孫像在二月因政治糾紛而被推倒的前科，這塑像之可以存在亦算走運。
Taiwan is not embarrassed to restore the relics of its former colonial
ruler – Japan, in fact there is a population sector that is still attached to
this past. A visit to the Memorial Hall of former Yilan government might shed light on this phenomenon. The argument goes
that the governance by Kuomintang with the US consent had not been particularly
humane in the past.
The National Centre for Traditional Arts has a cocktail
display of arts and crafts. Some of the traditional skills such as copperware
making can hardly be seen elsewhere. The extraordinary array of activities more
than justifies the value of the entrance ticket. 「國立傳統藝術中心」不愧是民間藝術共冶一爐的大攢盒。部份陳列的工藝如打銅作業更是鮮見。裡面各式各樣的展品及活動所收費用絕對是物超所值。
Running the risk of bad taste by style-conscious
readers,
the puppet show – organized by the centre, is a colorful lesson
to learn on southern living. 這個詐似品味低俗的木偶戲，可能冒犯潮人讀者，其實它是淺嚐南部生活的課堂。
Adjacent to the railway station with a steam
locomotive running wild, Diu Diu Dong Forest (2001-07) is a covered plaza
designed by Huang Sheng-yuan, who makes Yilan his architectural base. The
massive steel structure forms a gathering focus of the park dedicated to the
cartoon characters by Jimmy – an equivalent of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who
created Le Petit Prince. 「丟丟噹森林」位處火車站旁，懸掛着飛翔半空一列蒸汽路軌車。它的有蓋廣場是植根宜蘭的黃聲遠建築師設計。這個巨型鋼結構以幾米人物為題，不斷吸引人流，成為公園的聚焦。
Luodong 羅東市
Towards the south-west in a green setting is Ludong Cultural
Workshop (1999-2012) – again designed by Huang and his team Fieldoffice
Architects. 在市中心西南以郊的「羅東文化工場」(1999-2012)同樣是黃聲遠及他的「田中央工作群」設計。
The project took two stages to complete: first – the canopy
structure and second – the exhibition building years later. The complex as its bold
configuration suggests exemplifies a matching degree of a sheer determination
from the designers and funders. 此項目經兩個階段復可完成:一，天篷結構；二，良久才蓋好的展覽建築物。文化工場強而有力的造型與設計師及籌建團隊的決志仿佛互相輝映。
With an open access leading to the rooftop
deck, the public seems to enjoy every nook and cranny in-between. 公眾享受通往屋頂層的休憩平台及其中形狀各異的空間。
The improvised-looking architecture maintains a tolerable stand-off with the buildings nearby, thanks to the large setback provided by the dividing road and car park.
這貌似即興湊合的作品與附近建築不一，但保持兼容局面，全靠寬闊的車道分隔。
The 18m high sunshade overlooking Ludong New
Woodsland is
a favorite hub of events and casual gatherings. 18米高的遮陽飽覽「羅東新林埸」，是大型活動及市民休嬉的首選地方。
(images∣www.walkarc.com)
Floor plan, section and elevation.
平面、立面及剖面圖。
Jiaosi 礁溪
Almost every other hotel
in this town offers hot spring on the bathtub. There are plenty of choices for
every pocket. 鎮內的酒店多半提供溫泉設施。不管個人消費能力，選擇委實多的是。
Hotel Royal (above), so the name rightly suggests, is a class above the
rest. Instead of pampering on hot spring, we took a buffet lunch that served rural
seafood with degrees of sophistication. Suggestion: There are free shuttles taking
customers from Taipei to arrive in good shape.
The design of Lanyang Museum (2010)
successfully merges the architecture with the local cuesta landform.
「蘭陽博物館」的設計成功地讓建築與附近的鬣丘地形相互融合。
The building overlooking the mangrove landscape.
從建築物高處眺望紅樹林風光。
Even though the brief
requires a heap of floor areas for exhibition
purpose - resulting in a daunting task for most visitors, the solution offered
by the architect - Kris Yao does not override the surrounding yet manages to make
a statement readable by all.
the house of Kebalan
culture. 不花上一天時間，沒法完成瀏覽所有館內的「噶瑪蘭」文化展品。
(image∣www.gaoloumi.com)
Museum situated at the
edge of artificial lake facing the ocean.
博物館身處人工湖旁，面對海洋。
Su-ao 蘇澳
With its rarity in nature duly noted, the cold
spring at Su-ao Township is a must-try no matter the weather. At 22̊c, the
bubbly mineral bath was invigorating despite my initial hesitations. Private
rooms were alternatives to the public bath (photo above), but the shoddy
facilities had to be overcome.
Slightly north on Wai-ao beach, the famous sight of
dark fine grains attracts photo calls from tourists around the world. They are
the remnants of volcanic ashes deposited over the millennia. The coastlines of surrounding districts are exceptional popular with surfers and other water
sports enthusiasts.
The early evening beach with breaking waves is very
agreeable although the waiting of train back to town afterwards is another
matter. 黃昏的景緻加上海浪的拍岸聲確實令人叫爽，但呆著等車回去卻是另一回事。
Taipei
City 台北市
The capital city is a
multi-faceted metropolis that offers a diversity of attractions. There is no
single aspect that captures the vibrant city lives or the charming backstreet
shops, not to mention the historical trails or the nearby countryside. My fourth
visit this time again represents a very narrow angle
of snapshots.
At every turn of street
corners, no matter it is the planting, shop front or even graffiti, Taipei brims
with charms and surprises. On the photograph is a small eatery at Yung Kang
Street – quintessential for such leisurely walk. 不管是盆栽、店面甚至塗鴉，台北的街角充溢雅趣及驚喜。照片上永康街的小食肆就是漫步其中的一隅。
If there is a contemporary need to present
Buddhism, Water-Moon Monastery (2012) stands at the forefront of this movement.
Again designed by Kris Yao, the religious complex and garden provide a pleasant
environment even for casual visit. It is only off limits
to wedding photo groups
– notified so on a sign. 「法鼓山農禪寺」(2012)代表著新派展現佛教學說的佼佼者。同樣由姚仁喜構思的這所綜合建設，光是漫遊園中已屬樂事。帷獨婚紗攝影則是列明受禁止的活動。
The buildings are well detailed and finished. The
monastery is particularly celebrated with sutra writings cast on walls or fenestrated
to admit light. It might look formalistic on photos;
but with the landscape
garden and helpful volunteer staff,
my inspired visit was joy for the day. 無論是設計細節及施工技巧兩個層次，建築物實屬淬鍊之作。不可不题是部份修道院外牆以金剛經文字作為窗戶裝飾更受矚目及讚譽。也許照片帶點形式主義之印象，但優美的「水月道場」和友善的志工令筆者既感悟亦快慰。
(image∣www.archdaily.com)
Layout plan of the monastery complex – it is only
15 minutes away from the transit railway. 「法鼓山農禪寺」總平面圖 - 其位置與靠近的捷運站只有十五分鐘步行距離。
(image∣Jeffery
Chen@www.krisyaoartech.com)
The grand hall of assembly. 寺院以大殿為核心
Young generations have gained better opportunity to learn their hidden past
through the opening of Taipei 228 Memorial Museum in 1997. The establishment is part of the healing process for
the nation; and every elected president since then would not hesitate to apologize
to the people. 自1997年後，年輕人從「台北二二八紀念館」這渠道揭開台灣不光彩的歷史。此項建設是整個國家對過往作孼療傷的重要部份；現今每個總統都就過去的管治向國民道歉。
Like those that have to come to terms with their
shady past, the Taipei government is honest enough, though much belated, to face the misdeed
committed after the violent suppressions of public revolts on February 28,
1947. In the following years, thousands of people from all sectors were
persecuted to death for suspicion of communist affiliations. Many of those
arrested were simply vanished without trace. 就像那些深藏不宣的過去，台北政府還是雖要面對以往的罪行，不管有多姍姍來遲 - 說的是1947年2月28日和及後當時政府對民間反抗的暴力鎮壓。在短短幾年間，來自各階層的民眾因親共的指控下被殺的以千至萬計。很多被捕的甚至只能以失蹤人口告終。
Under the gaze is an untitled work by Wang Guo-ju
with timber and brass tubes. The fateful date is marked on the ambiguously formed
cross shape. 王國柱的無名作品是由銅管及木塊組成。這個帶點曖昧的十字架狀雕塑著有那充滿宿命的日期。
(image∣www.designboom.com)
Computer rendering of TPAC – the conscious
form-making effort deduced from the design does not earn much merit from
critics. Some commented on architecture forums suggesting that Taiwan people deserve better quality work. But fact is fact, it is scheduled to be open in 2015.
If OMA’s Taipei Performing Arts Centre (TPAC) is
too cosmopolitan to obliterate regional identity, Taipei Fine Arts Museum (TFAM)
– incorporating classical courtyard arrangement and ageing gracefully is one of
my favorite haunts in the city.In fact, both are separated by a fifteen minute walk from each other.
Cloud of Unknowing – A city of Seven Streets《未明的雲朶 - 一城七街》
To celebrate the 130th anniversary of
the founding of the city, TFAM organized an exhibition to look into the
discourse of city by different artists through a diversity of media. The
following represents a selection of works for viewing.
Joint work by Terunobu Fujimari, Jun Igarashi and Go Hasegawa. 藤森照信,五十嵐淳, 長谷川豪
ROJO (Roadway Observation Study) is an interest
group from Japan which casts spotlights on neglected everyday objects. The images
on the walls and video shows in the typically Fujimari dungeon (timber
structure at centre) attempt to raise these objects from obscurity. 日本的「路上觀察學會」(ROJO)由一群同道人建立，以發掘受人忽略的尋常百姓事物為宗旨。牆壁上的照片和藤森照信設計之木屋內的錄像皆嘗試將這些瑣事呈現於眼前。
Go Hasegawa, Window Blinds.長谷川豪《百葉窗》
An enlarged installation of blinds screening a
landscaped window: Hasegawa challenged us to see two sitters on a blade (slightly out of focus at left). 留意一下長谷川豪的百葉窗裝置：長谷挑戰大家有沒有發現百葉上的兩個坐者(位於左面且不聚焦)。
Street of Learning - The Beautiful Future《美好的未來》
A set of collaborated paintings, cynical yet funny,
leaves more questions than answers.
憤世嫉俗之餘不失趣味的一系列協作畫所引發的問題多於答案。
Nick Bonner, Dominic Johnson-Hill and selected
North Korean artists,
KTV Gives Us a Voice, 2008.《練歌房,人民的喉舌》
Nick Bonner, Dominic Johnson-Hill and selected
North Korean artists, Office Office Culture for Prosperity, 2008.《辦公室,小康生活敲門磚》
Liu Kuo-chang, Fragile Ashes of Ink Landscape.劉國滄,《殘片燼墨山水》
Ning OU, Street of Utopia. 歐寧,《烏托邦街 - 碧山計劃》
Jay Chou, Street of Cloud - Unknowing Modernity. 《雲朶街》邱文傑
For culinary fans, Dihua Street is an open museum
of food ingredients. For architectural buffs, there are plenty of old buildings
with unique facades to see. In recent years, cultural establishments and
projects have sprung up in the district to allow visitors to explore on a
variety of subjects. 對於烹調界來說，迪化街堪稱是海納百川的食材博覽館。對於保育迷，這裡集結很多獨一無二的舊"國民"建築。近年間，不少文化團體及項目皆在這鄰社生根，帶動人流及生氣。
At the fringe of the neighbourhood lies River Tamsui where transportation
of foodstuff used to be brisk. Reconfigured in recent years as a public
promenade, it was a memorable location to savour a tranquil sunset. 這社區的一旁是以前車水馬龍、食物運輸所依賴的淡水河。河岸現在已變身成為公眾步道，它的黃昏景緻足以讓人著迷。
Shifen 十分
Used to be a group of sleepy coal-mining villages threaded by
an infrequent train service from Taipei, Shifen is now a mega destination for
tourists wanting to escape from urban bustles. 十分及附近地方原本是細少的產煤村落，由火車通往台北。今天，它卻是超級旅遊重鎮，讓現代人忘掉城市繁囂。
Paper balloon lighting seems to be a mandatory
activity for all. Nobody cares where and how they end up after the fuel is
consumed. Virtue is definitely relative in time and place as
forest fire does
not seem to be a concern here. 放天燈無疑是這裡的指定活動。不管天燈最終在那裡或怎樣墮下，無人理會。人的德行其實跟時間和地域相對，森林火災在這裡仿佛不是什麼一回事。
Hop on, hop off – Ching Tung is the last stop of
train rides that is closer to idyllic living. 不知不覺的上車及下車後，青桐是連串站頭最後亦是較寧靜的一個了。
A few notes: melody
encounters 音樂隨遇
In the blazing heat of summer, lives take on more leisurely
ways at night. Music making is plentiful and ubiquitous in the month of our
visit.
Street gag surrounded by an impromptu crowd in
Hualien. 花蓮的街頭演奏吸引人群聚集。
Free-for-all jazz concert at Liberty Square,
Taipei. 台北自由廣場上演的免費爵士樂音樂會。
Easy listening interspersed with chit-chat in
Taichung. 在台中，悅耳的輕音樂配合多少家常話，一樂也。
Classical nourishment at Art Reading Café, Taipei. 台北「雅痞書店」內的咖啡館彌漫著古典音樂養份。
Another jazz concert at the attractive foyer of Lanyang Museum. 在「蘭陽博物館」內別致的大堂碰上另一個爵士樂表演。
A few notes: nice people 人物隨遇
Among others including a
couple who shared their food with us, a family of joggers we chatted with on
politics after asking for directions and a café owner who expressed huge
passion for growing coffee in Taiwan, there were …
The
owners of Art Reading Café in Taipei, Mr. and Mrs. Chan earnestly asked me on
the food quality after dinner with the intention of improving on every detail
of their operation. Honestly it was one of the best meals I had in a month in
Taiwan, let alone the good digs among the books and live recital to
Waiting for the train to
Yilan, I had a heartwarming chat with this 86 years old cyclist, who alerted me
on the railway track whilst backpedalling for this photograph. 在宜蘭火車月台上，我有幸與這位八十六歲年壯單車手交流騎車瑣事。當我後退拍照時，他還提醒我注意路軌的高差。
The
woman in pink was a member of Falun Gong (or Dharma Wheel Practice) – the
religious cult that was banished in mainland China. We had a brief exchange of
views to the effect that felt like a pat on each other’s shoulder. She gives
handouts citing Communist persecutions of innocent individuals to mainland tourists, most of whom invariably
pay visits to the Palace Museum.
The
tens of bikies in Yilan were members of TCFC (Taiwan Fund for Children and
Families) who paraded in the street for a charity event. They were a cheerful lot, giving away V-signs and
smiling incessantly.
在宜蘭街上巡遊的十多枚電單車是一群快樂的「家扶志工」。在拍照過程中，部份起勁的還不斷做出勝利手勢。
A
few notes: food ventures 食物隨遇
How can anyone leave out food fares in Taiwan? The
simplest yet achieving the best is Shandong Dumpling and Noodle – the “singular”
name not to be missed in Taichung. TripAdvisor and Lonely Planet have many scores
of plaudits on it. 來到台灣，哪裡可以將美食擱下去？令筆者念念不忘的店子卻是既簡單而上乘的「山東餃子牛肉麵館」。這台中小館在TripAdvisor及Lonely
Planet的中外討論區獲得不少讚譽。
Food adventurers will have a brisk time in Taiwan. To
balance the picture, this authentic seafood porridge joint in Lukang is one of
the very few that is not agreeable to foreign taste buds like mine. Name
withheld. 饕客來台肯定忙個不亦樂乎。或許在這兒需平衡一下此觀感，鹿港這家海鮮粥店乃非一般外來的味蕾懂得欣賞。店名不便公開。
Mr. Wu and his Wu Pao Chun Bakery is the proud son
of Taiwan. His award-winning work of lychee rose bread simply takes flour to a
new dimension. Love it!
It should
not take long for me to return. 等不了，我肯定再回來的。
Gem discovery or converging towards mainstream - Taiwan has been listed to be among the 20 Best Trips by National Geographic in 2015. 這是瑰寶的發現還是推往主流的一步？台灣在《國家地理》雜誌被選為2015年內世界上二十個最佳旅遊地點其中一個。
