Photo Journal: Taiwan 7-8.2014 (Part 1)

This island at the edge of the Pacific Ocean might not be high on most travelers’ itineraries. The name itself might not ring any bell for readers far afield. But for anyone in possession of a smart-phone, such as the “fruit machine”, it is likely that some of the circuits within are designed and made in Taiwan. To expand on the list, bicycles and tennis rackets have long been popular export items in the world. A recent craze, somewhat controversial, emerged from this country is canned nitrous oxide, or laughing gas which may be filling parties in replacement of drugs one day.

 

 

「台灣」這名字對華語系人仕而言像似念熟，甚或想當然。由以往的網球拍、單車至今日手機的電路板設計和製造均與這小島且扯上關係。而此刻其中最受著目的要算上氧化氫氣潮流派對。這個帶爭議的笑氣罐裝產品正取代傳統濫藥物，在世界各地流行起來。

No ordinary bash  非一般的派對
 

Dean-E Mei (1954- ), Give Me Hugs, 2000. ”Wanted Dean-E Mei, 

A Retrospective 2014” at Taipei Fine Arts Museum

梅丁衍 (1954-), 尋梅啟事1976-2014回顧展” 給我抱抱”2000

Mei puts together a convivial scene of Taiwan in company with all of its friendly countries represented in the form of cushions. Due to China’s isolation policy, the island state maintains full diplomatic ties with only twenty-two governments in the world, Vatican City already being the most well-known and influential of all. This installation provides a preamble to understanding the precarious existence of Taiwan as a political and economic entity, a status of which its citizens find little comfort.

梅丁衍運用一系列坐墊 - 代表台灣的友好邦交，營造出一個歡欣喜樂氣象。由於中國大陸對台的孤立政策，台灣目前只能與二十一個國家建立邦交，其中梵蒂岡以經是最為人所認識。這個裝置為普羅大眾提供一個了解台灣政經自身的初階。此堪虞狀態亦正是台灣人普遍不安的原因。
 

Nature 大自然

With rugged mountains, pristine coastlines and abundance of resources, the compelling landscapes of the “treasure” island – as it is tagged sentimentally, draw in frocks of visitors from nearby countries.


寶島的稱號不愧實至名歸；它的巒秀山峰、樸拙海岸和豐裕資源吸引大量遊客從鄰國造訪。

Get ready to shoot. The train journey along the east coast of 

Taiwan offers breathtaking sceneries before the eyes. 
快拍吧。火車經過台灣東岸時，美麗的風景盡收眼底。

The trees in Pine Garden, Hualien are bent permanently 

due to the trade winds from the Pacific Ocean.
太平洋的季候風令花蓮松園别館的樹木順風而長。

Once a shortcut to transport coal, Jing’an Suspension Bridge 

at Shihfen has become a famous tourist haunt in recent years.

原本十分的靜安吊橋是供運輸煤炭用，今時今日它是區內遊人必訪之景點。

The unique sandy beach at Wai’ao, Yilan attracts swimmers and surfers alike. The fine dark sand is the remnant of volcanic ashes accumulated over the years. An active volcano by the name of Turtle Mountain Island is only a few kilometers from the coast.
宜蘭的外澳沙灘，堪稱獨一無二，泳客及愛衝浪的都駱亦不絕。這裏幼細的黑沙見証着火山灰燼千萬年來的沉澱。其實，數公里以外的龜山島正是這個活火山的源頭。

Very brief history 至短簡史

(image∣Qing Xiu Yuan)

As early as the 17^th century, Taiwan was only inhabited by island peoples of the South Pacific before the arrivals of Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and Japanese, who invariably had in mind national interests of various kinds. This photograph was taken by the Japanese in the colonial era at Celestial Hound Rock – a location unable be traced today.

十七世紀前，台灣絕大多數的人口為南太平洋島嶼族民。自此，漢人、葡萄牙人、荷蘭人及日本人因追逐國家自身利益，相繼登陸。上圖照片為日治期間，日本人拍攝到原住民的丰姿。取景地點位於當時稱為「天狗岩」之處，可惜這所在地現今已失查。

(image∣www.huaxia.com)

No better institution, tangible enough, can sum up the recent history of Taiwan than the National Palace Museum in Taipei. In the photograph, hordes of wooden cases carrying museum pieces were lined up outside the Forbidden City, Beijing to evade from the invading Japanese Army on February 4, 1933. With imminent fall against the communists in China, the fleeing Nationalist Government hastily dispatched a total 2972 crates to Taiwan in December 1948.


要說台灣的近代史，沒有一個具體地方比台北故宮更切合。在1933年2月4日，北京紫禁城前門國民政府結集數以千計載滿寶藏的木箱，準備移走，以防日軍的搶掠。最後敗走他山的國民黨被迫在1948年12月，以2972箱子封存大批文物，一同逃難台灣。

(image∣www.huaxia.com)

If the endeavour does not sound crazy enough, this collection of treasures had been on the move for a gruelling 16 years, literally crossing mountains and rivers in order to hide from the communists and the invading Japanese army. Like the artefacts now kept in Taipei, the Nationalists en mass also made their exit and was never to return to the mainland ever since.


在長達十六年的逃徙中，這批文物經歷涉山過水之旅，避開敵對的共產黨及日軍。最終國民政權落得與這些文物同樣命運，不再返回中國大陸。

(image∣www.npm.gov.tw)

Sampling art from the National Palace Museum, Taipei: courtesan living is depicted with vivid gestures and expressions. There are even hints of sonority captured by this anonymous artist in “A Palace Concert” of Late Tang (755-907).


現舉台北故宮珍藏一二：由佚名畫家於晚唐(755-907)完成的〈唐人宮樂圖〉，裏面描畫的宮廷仕女生活，繪形至臻以外還繪出聲音似的。

(image∣www.eastasiaceramic.blogspot.com)

This is not the average bric-a-brac from Chinatown. If one happens to be in the museum, do not miss the Ru wares of Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). It might be said that “Tiffany Blue” had been created and extolled more than a thousand years ago. In every visit to the museum, I am constantly enthralled in front of this wine warmer.

這並非唐人街可以找到的一般工藝品。如果閣下有機會到台北故宮的話，千萬不要錯過北宋期間(960-1127)出產的汝窯。可以說，中國於一千年前已創作並推崇名店Tiffany的粉藍專色。每次到這博物館，我都享受站在這枚溫酒碗前，被迷得靈魂出竅。

Reading chaos 閱讀混沌 

As a multi-layered society dressed up in homogeneous ethnicity, Taiwan may be difficult to decipher on many fronts. Its visual manifestations on urban and architectural levels are often unruly to the eyes.

台灣族群表面的同質性內藏複合層次，它卻是個不容易讀透的社會。況且在都會及建築有形層面上，它們經常給人有混亂和無序之感。

There exists certain order among chaos, or meaning through jumbles. The cities in Taiwan have hardly any Haussmann-style boulevard or grand palace; for people who'd like to search their own gems, Taiwan might be an unlikely favorite destination.


查亂中往往有序，碎中有緻。台灣的都市不存巴黎般的大道或華麗宮殿。如果有讀者著意尋找自己的樂土，台灣可能是他們意想不到之選。

Taichung City 台中市

Local young people seem to be very receptive to grunge approaches to refurbishing old buildings. The qualities of design are quite outstanding. At the inner city areas, rehab opportunities of concrete and steel are plentiful. 


以「老，爛，潮」方式去活化建築，對年青一輩似是很受落，設計質素亦見出色。在舊城區，改建這些舊水泥建築的機會委實多的是。

Miyahara used to be a Japanese eye hospital of the 1920s that was revamped by the young architect, C.B. Su. The designer salvaged much of the original building materials while injecting new lease of life by creating a curtain wall exterior capping and library-like interior facade.


「宮原眼科」- 故名思義是一所日本眼科醫院。經年青建築師蘇丞斌改造後，這座1920代建築現以玻璃幕牆蓋頂及圖書館般的内立面，重獲新生。部份原有建築構件亦得以保留。

Still pulling crowds after opened in January, 2012, this cake shop and ice-cream parlour are magnets of attraction in my summer visit.


自2012年1月開幕，它的冰淇淋及餅店吸引大批客人光顧，特別是在拍照炎夏的當日。

Dawn Cakes also runs another joint, which was converted from a bank hall. The original vault door – installed at street level with new vibe, perhaps has given away its background.

「日出」公司還將一棟銀行大樓進行大變身，保留「台中市第四信用合作社」的原名。憑着臨街的一道金庫鋼門，既潮亦帶出暗示；細看下，大樓原有的功能不期然反映過來。

Opened in August 2013, the design formulae mixing retro, fun and industrial appeals have developed a brand of its own.

自13年8月開業，懷舊、愛玩及工業感覺三者融合，構成獨特的設計品牌。

Apart from the trendsetting establishments, Life Tea (or “Mountain Cabin in February” in the local language) is a place I would recommend to spend a tranquil evening on the western outskirts of the city. Its collections of condiments and tea items, in my opinion, can melt every heart of stone.


潮點以外，我絕對推薦「二月山家」。這個座落於西城的食店，個人而言，足以令人過一個既寧靜且窩心的晚上。

Not far from this restaurant and the lazy shopping streets near Tunghai University, the Luce Memorial Chapel congregates Christians as well as believers of modern architecture. Both I.M. Pei and the local architect C.K. Chen claimed sole credit for the design without acknowledging the other. It certainly looks rather dated from the exterior; but upon entrance, the inclined space shaped with concrete is surprisingly generous and elegant. 


位處以上館子及東海大學不遠處，路思義堂吸引不少教友及建築愛好者朝拜。貝聿銘及台灣建築師 -陳其寛均強調設計是個人一力之作。小教堂的外觀無疑有點過時，但甫內進後，這個斜面的水泥建構空間卻超出預期的寬敞及優美。

Not cited anywhere as far as I know, the church has certain resemblance to aboriginal huts in Taiwan. Anyhow, this small parabolic building of 1963 has attained iconic status much bigger than what the architects had imagined. 

以筆者的觀察，這教堂與原住民建築有着顧本塑源的關聯性。同樣意想不到，這個迷你拋物線建築今日在台的在地性是當年两位設計師不能想像的。

The chapel is well situated on a slopping hill that allows pleasant walk around. The rear side with pronounced glass slit, is no less attractive.
建築在小斜坡上的教堂有利於漫步繞圈觀賞。它的背面尤其是修長的窗戶亦見醒目。

Floor plan – entrance from south.
小教堂的平面圖 - 入口在南面

Brother and brother 難兄難弟

For reasons very different from Taiwan, Serbia has also been sidelined from the world until very recently. It is a rare chance to sample contemporary art from this new country at the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts. In “Subdued Existence: Serbian Contemporary Art Scene”, there are visions of darkness, human failures and optimism. Many of the works are self-explanatory that do not require elaboration.


塞爾維亞和台灣一樣飽受別國孤立，不管大家的因由有異。「壓抑的存在：塞爾維亞當代藝術」是一個難得機會，淺嚐這個新生國家的藝術創作。國美館裏展出的主題圍繞着人類黑暗及負面的角度；但與此同時，樂觀的思潮亦不缺乏。下面選出的作品均具自我表述能力，現故不贅。

Goran Despotovski, Selection (作品名：選擇), 2013. Sewn dolls and clothing.

Detail

Vessna Perunovich, (W)hole, House of Exile(作品名：洞/流亡之屋),
2001-10. Video and steel installation.

Miloš Tomić, Hair(作品名：髪), 2007. Video

With limited resources, the artist shows us 

the brighter side of the human spirit.

Museum visit, literally 參觀”美術館”

Tadao Ando (1941- ) has added a quality piece of work

 to the dreary campus of Asia University. 
安滕忠雄(1941- )為亞洲大學鬱悶的校園加設了一所高水平的建築。

Asia Museum of Modern Art (or Asia Modern), completed in October 2013, is a magnet for visitors due to the architecture itself. Despite the unquestioned qualities, many of its exhibits including the Rodins and Moores are slightly out of tune under the same roof. Given the resources and time, it is hoped that the museum can acquire a stronger identity.


在2013年10月啟用的亞洲美術館擁有魅力磁場，吸引大量的訪客。雖然這裡的藏品(包括羅丹及亨利摩亞)本體甚為精湛，但在這場館裏卻有格格不入之感。在適當資源帶動下，筆者希望此館日後可發展成為一個地道有性格的場館。

The open layout poses a dilemma for all architects: Should a museum be designed as a container that houses art, or an art piece that might outshine its content? Since this Ando building has a formidable presence inside out, it is arguable that art viewing here plays second fiddle in many respects.


此館開放式的設計顯現建築師的難題：究竟美術館應該是展品的軀殼，還是需要超越本位，與展品逐艷？此安滕作品無論室內外均極具震懾力，此刻本欄觀察到的課題卻是：因建築物自身有喧賓奪主之勢，來這裏觀賞展品實屬次選。

Ground Floor Plan, Asia Museum of Modern Art by Tadao Ando
安滕忠雄的亞洲美術館地面層平面圖

Section, Asia Museum of Modern Art

美術館剖面圖

The museum design is made up of three triangulated floor spaces that are offset against one another to form a complex spatial arrangement. Admittedly, the triangular theme and spectacular concrete finishes are architectural tour de force to be reckoned with.


美術館造型以三角形樓層縱橫交錯，構成細緻的立體空間。無可否認，這裏運用的三角幾何提案及近乎完美的水泥飾面不愧是絕妙佳作。

(image∣www.teamsuzuki.pixnet.net)

Due to bad weather that led to the closure of the mountain park, we were unable to enjoy the landscape of Alishan. For those with a soft spot for trains like myself, the vintage rides cannot be missed either. An image is what can be gathered at this point.

由於颱風迫近，導致阿里山國家公園關閉，我們無法參觀那裏的風光。對喜愛火車之眾包括筆者，園內穿梭的早古火車實在不宜錯過。此刻只能找一張照片給大家止渴吧。

Lukang   鹿港

One hour drive from Taichung is this old town which seems to have been kept in a gigantic time warp for decades. Its “federation style” architecture, not to be seen except in film settings, is a unique blend of ornaments fusing east and west. The charming facades along major streets, though worn at places, are shuffled with interesting old-time traders and craftsmen.


離台中大概一句鐘車遙的鹿港好像被巨型時間廊活埋了數十年光景。它的「民國」建築，揉合了東西方的建築裝飾，彷彿在電影以外不復存在。在大街碰上的樓宇外貌，縱然破爛，卻穿插着少雅緻的昔日商號及工藝師。

Between the unusual Hopperesque sitter and I, to say nothing of 
the haunting dark tones, lies a catalogue telling us that this is 

an American ginseng retailer.
在鏡頭與黃衣女士之間，除了充溢着陰沉的氛圍外，放置了一小冊子告訴我們這兒是一家花旗國人参專賣店。實景內滲透着愛德華．霍普油畫般超凡的靜態感覺，令人喘不過氣。

Just off the main road, there is a web of old streets that give hints to past living. Dried mullet roe, or Borttaga in Italy, is a local delicacy that might no longer popular with young taste buds. 
離開主車道不遠有大小街巷彌漫着舊日生活片段。在曬乾中的烏魚子，吃法像意大利魚子脯，是在地著名的饌物，年青一輩食客可不甚欣賞了。

Talking about youths, it impressed me to find this school field trip to Longshan Temple, built in 1831. The students played docents to their peers while the teacher was watching from behind. Rather than spoon-feeding unappreciated knowledge, this method could be more rewarding as a learning experience.

話說年青人，在鹿港建於1831年的龍山寺碰上的一群卻令筆者印象深刻。由老師在旁觀望着，他們為同學們作導賞講解；此教育方法脫離傳統填鴨式灌輸知識，從經驗中真正學習。

The temple is among the best timber buildings I have ever visited 
on grounds of authentic preservation and natural weathering.
這寺廟是本人參觀過最好的木建築之一，除了原味保育外，它的自然風化效果亦見出色。

Cloisters are defined by ornamental door openings that 

can also be read as Taoist’s signifiers.

這裏的迴廊由裝飾門洞襯托的同時亦彰顯道家八卦學說。

Tainan City  台南市

Sweltering sunlight cast shadows on the model warships of Koxinga located at the centre of the temple at Fort Provintia. Tainan was the oldest city in Taiwan that was occupied temporarily by the Dutch in the 17^th century prior to the conflicts with the Qing Dynasty.

在赤崁樓中央，炎熱的光線照射着鄭成功模型戰船。台南市為台灣最古老之都，與清政府交往之前，它經歷被荷蘭人統治。

The Japanese also left their marks locally. 

Lin Department Store (or Hayashi as previously known) 

was renovated last year after the building was initially constructed in 1932 for the same purpose.

日本人在此地亦留下足跡。「林百貨」昨年重修開幕，相比1932年同一大樓，前身名為Hayashi的百貨店，真是有點久違了。

The Japanese shrine at the roof was faithfully re-built. Discontent with party politics granted, it is yet 

difficult to understand the mentality behind restoring

 former glories of a war aggressor.
在屋頂的日本神社依樣重建。考慮到當地的政黨政治的因素以外，本人還是不明白重塑侵略國光輝的思維是什麼一回事。

Opposite to the department building is another Japan-related landmark completed in 1937 during the heydays of the Asia-Pacific War. The striped classical edifice of the Land Bank of Taiwan flickers the ghost of fascist architecture seldom seen in Asia.
「林百貨」對面是另外一棟地標式日治建築。台南土地銀行於1937年蓋好， 標誌著太平洋戰爭時的重要建設。銀行的嚴謹外觀，彌溢著法西斯式建築的靈魂，在亞洲地區是比較罕見。

Chrysanthemum bosses, emblematic of the Japanese imperial family and nationalism, are still visible on the coffered ceiling.

代表着日本的皇家家徽及民族象徵之菊花圖案在天花上還清晰可見。

Dean-E Mei, Taiwan loves Japan/Japan loves Taiwan, 1998.

To borrow again the caustic visions of Dean-E Mei who sees the bilateral relationship from different perspectives, we have Japan looking down on Taiwan on the left whilst Taiwan faithfully looks up to Japan. A partial view of course.

借用梅丁衍上面的苛性思維去探討台日的雙邊關係，我們發現日本祇管下視台灣，而台灣卻永遠仰望日本。噢，這當然是一偏頗的觀點。(作品：梅丁衍，台日親善/日台親善，1998)

Confucius Temple with the ominous presence of “loyalty”, 

“Chastity”, “Chivalry” and “Piety” painted on the walls. 

The virtues remind one of the stern governance in a bygone era, which ended with a multi-party system since the 1980s. The same might apply to moralistic teachings that are no longer popular.

孔子廟裏的四字道德 - 忠、孝、節、義，隨着80年代發展的多黨制，今刻祇能令人勾起逝去的威權政治。同理，道德教誨這一套亦難免無人問津。

Grunge interiors (adding old to new deco) of Tainan have taken a step further than those in Taichung. If time is allowed, there should a whole article devoted to this topic. Before waiting too long, here is a glimpse of this local design phenomenon. From above, the bar of Funny Wenqing at Shan Lun Street is a quintessential example of this style.


台南的「老，爛，潮」設計風格比台中的更勝一籌。若時間容許，這題目足以構成一篇獨立報導。我們淺窺一下這個在地設計文化現象吧。上圖這神農街的「文青好好笑」酒吧，是好一個出色的佼佼者。

Liang Liang is a small setup by a couple with a gallery 

and café split between two floors of a terraced building.

「兩倆」是一間由夫妻檔合拍的小咖啡館及畫廊，位於同一街上並連接老排屋的上、下層。

At a larger scale, Sonnentor Café serves food with art on the side. The artworks are daring if not quirky. With a nice break from local dishes, it was a sheer comfort to have tasted their in-house pastas that are comparable in quality with the best eateries anywhere.

比較大規模的要說「日光大道 - 台南廚坊」巧妙地將食物與藝術拼湊，後者既大胆亦怪哉。餐廳的自製意大利麵條絕對可跟世界其他食肆媲美。吃得多本土菜，當天的一頓午餐帶回不少慰藉。

The National Museum of Taiwan Literature provides a vista to sample local literacy scenes. With political reasons, its exhibits are related to writers affiliated with the south than those from the north, and left-wing than right.

國立台灣文學館提供一瞥探索在地文學的機會。因為政治取態，它的展品偏於南方作家多於北方，左翼多於右翼。

Despite the on-going renovation works at the time, the place is worth visiting for literary fans or anyone interested in the art of presentation. Due credits must be given to the exhibition designers in Taiwan, the quality of setups and contents in venues including this one seldom fails to impress.

文學館雖然正處於裝修期，對文學粉絲或展覽業界而言，這裏確實值得參觀。趁此機會需褒獎一下台灣的展覽設計師，這館或其他場館的策展質素甚少有令人失望之處。

Kaohsiung 高雄

There are a lot to offer in this city, but it was meant to be a stop-over of two days for our train journey to the eastern side of the island. It turned out to be a brief visit neither my wife nor I would forget.


高雄其實有相當可觀性，可惜我們只能按計劃逗留兩天以完成東岸火車環島遊。這個短暫停留卻令我和太太畢生難忘。

There was no escape in this second visit in Kaohsiung - Dream Mall was everything we had in the mega-malls of Hong Kong. The fairground at roof level during sunset made a pleasant stroll before dinner.


這是第二次到來高雄了，哪裏能逃避參觀「夢時代」這個超級購物天地。一如香港的商場，它當然是應有盡有。在黃昏時份，我們在屋頂的遊樂場漫步然後晚飯，心情異常寫意。

(photo∣www.bastillepost.com)

A massive gas explosion took place in the late evening on July 31, killing 32 people including six firemen and injuring more than three hundred people. We happened to be at the scene of the accident less than 24 hours ago.
 
七月三十一日午夜前，高雄市一場氣體大爆炸奪去三十二條人命，其中包括六名消防員，另外還有三百多人受傷。我們倆在不足二十四小時前正正經過案發災場。

From Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts, the clever curatorial team has allowed the public to revisit the old collections under the title of “On Wings of Poetry and Music”, which included an impressive display of local pop music in the last 50 years.


多得聰明的策展團隊，高雄市立美術館的〈藝享天開詩與樂〉讓觀眾用另一角度重温舊典藏。參觀過程其中一隅的本土流行音樂之半世紀發展歷程更令人印象深刻。

The exhibition included the dualities of play between 

pairings of paintings and poems (reflected through mirrors).
展覽其中一個玩味包括繪畫及詩詞(清鏡中反射)的二元關聯。

Hsu Su-chen (1966-2013), Life Code of the Ocean II ,

 photographic images of bodily parts in perplex spheres.

One of those was an installation by Hsu who passed away suddenly before the exhibition. The poem in place was an emotional dedication by Catherine Yen : “Our path written at the edge of clouds” (translated by writer). I shared her feeling particularly due to my “near miss” in Kaohsiung

許淑真的〈海洋裡的生命密碼II〉令筆者特別感觸：這身體部位攝影連裝置在完成後還未展出，她就突然死去。二元關聯的新詩 -〈我與你的緣份寫在雲端〉是凃妙沂的作品。因為「高雄氣爆」的險遇，本人對許，凃之作多了一份認同感。

Words, words, words 最愛文字

It was said that Taiwan used to print poetry on toilet paper, a saying that related not much to its origin than reflection on the fervent reading habit of its people. “Off the Roll, Poetry”, published monthly since 2008, suggests that the national pastime is established firmly beyond bathroom doors.


據說台灣人愛好文字並曾經將詩詞印在衛生紙上方便閱讀。在這空間我們不究此言之由來，但它確切反映普遍台灣人濃厚的閱讀習慣。自2008年出版的【衛生紙】月刊見証國人這個興趣在洗手間以外相當興盛。

Nga this girl radiates like dew, Kebalan streams with thick water.

 (translated by writer)

This local folk saying is enshrined at the entrance of Lanyang Museum. Words carry more weight here like no other places. They are means of communication, persuasion and sometimes covert weapon in this literary nation.


〈阿藝倌真正水，噶瑪籣厚雨水〉是蘭陽博物館大堂鏤刻的一句在地土語。文字在台灣比其他地方來得有份量、受重視。在這個國度，文字是溝通工具、是誘導介面、亦可能是口蜜腹劍的武器。

Estile Bookshops are the biggest chain with branches that open 24 hours a day. Their shops are characteristically ample in space and dotted with reading areas. Most of their books are unwrapped, browsing are often measured in unit of hours by visitors. Above is the shop in Chungyo Department Store in Taichung.


誠品書店是全島最大的連鎖店，部份更是二十四小時營業。店的特色除了是空間大之外，還設有不少供閑閱的角落。這裏的書本大多是開口的，顧客瀏覽往往是以小時計。

Room A is an independent bookshop in Tainan that prides itself with a niche collection, cozy atmosphere and quality food and drinks.


Room A 是台南的獨立書店，以個性書藏、雅緻氛圍及優質簡餐為自家賣點。

A smart business mode Tsao-chi, also in Tainan, operates on is a small fee to enter. Upon buying a book, the fee can be deducted at the counter. With an interesting layout of stripped stairs and broken floor to impress customers, the shop ensures that each determined visitor would make a purchase.

台南另一家店 - 草祭二手書店採用有別的手法營運，客人內進前需付少額費用。若買書的話，這費用可以在售價上扣減。書主利用店舖破樓板及誘人的空間吸引顧客進內，同時亦保證他們離開時買走書籍。

Kishu An Forest of Literature combines book-selling with event activities. It sits opposite to a preserved Japanese bungalow that used to be a restaurant of the rich and famous a century ago. The heritage building, meticulously renovated, is in itself worth visiting despite the fact that the original interior and pond setting had vanished.


台北的紀洲奄文學森林將銷售與經營活動合併，它亦涵蓋一所被修復的日建築。據了解，房子在一個世紀前曾經是權貴人士喜愛的餐館。雖然它原本的裝飾及湖畔已不復見，這棟漂亮的文物還是很值得參觀。

(image∣www.angelicawei.pixnet.net)

Chou Meng-tieh (1921-2014) – I cannot express myself better than to say that the poet was cool through and through.


 除了是「型」以外，我找不到什麼說話來形容詩人周夢蝶(1921-2014)。

(image∣www.changchaotang.blogspot.com)

I went to visit the spot outside Café Astoria, Taipei where he sold old books for two decades until 1980. Apart from the commemoration of his passing early this May, I quote a few lines below to reflect on Chou’s charisma as much as his credentials in writing:

I prefer the colour purple.
I prefer to rest and wake early,

 to go out and return early.

I prefer cold porridge, 
broken ink slab, clear window; 

to busy myself on works that 
are idled by others and to idle on 
works everyone is busying.

I prefer, unless situations not permitted,
 to work with my bare hands on 
everything, no matter large or small.

…

I prefer vague impressions to hard memories.

I prefer sitting ashore

 than roughing out with the waves.

I prefer expansion and contraction, 

like detached engagements between 

railway tracks.

I prefer to go as the last resort, 
to terminate when and where appropriate.

I prefer to attain final enlightenment 

in solitude.

I prefer not to prefer.

(A few stanzas of I prefer by Chou in 2004 (translated by writer),

 after Possibilities by Wislawa Szymborska)

Gem discovery or converging towards mainstream – Taiwan has been listed to be among the 20 Best Trips by National Geographic in 2015. 

Part 2 of this travel journal including Taipei at here.

筆者走訪周夢蝶於台北武昌街明星咖啡館前的書攤位置，思索他直至上世紀八十年代的二十年生活狀態。此刻，除了憑弔詩人於今年五月離世外，本人摘錄周的詩句以表他的魅力及文筆：

我選擇紫色。

我選擇早睡早起早出早歸。

我選擇冷粥，破硯，晴窗；忙人之所閑而閑人之所忙。

我選擇非必不得已，一切事，無分巨細，總自己動手。

… 

我選擇牢記不如淡墨。(先慈語)

我選擇穩坐釣魚臺，看他風浪起。(先祖母語)

我選擇熱脹冷縮，如鐵軌與鐵軌之不離不即。

我選擇行乎其所不得不行，而止乎其所當止。

我選擇最後一人成究竟覺。

我選擇不選擇。

(摘錄自周夢蝶2004年的〈我選擇〉- 作品模仿波蘭女詩人Wislawa Szymborska的Possibilities)

遊記的第二部份，其中包括台北在此。